-Each country has it's own unique customs which I enjoy so much learning about. For example Turkey had me laughing when I found out that the sign to flip someone off is the same thing that we do to children when we say "Got your nose"!! In Egypt making the pinky swear with someone is a way to tell them that you are mad at them.
-The similarities differ slightly like in Turkey you would find women in the streets selling tissues for money while wearing Louis Vuitton hajabs, but in Egypt they wait until the evening when they go to the mall to spend their tissue money to put on the designer wear.
-Another unfortunate similarity is the "Democratic" system that they both have in common. Interestingly enough Egypt's president "won" the election...again with a 95% majority. However, during the voting time my friend went to cast his vote like many other citizen only to be turned away at the polls with any number of excuses the police could find to not allow its citizens to vote. I asked my friend what the people of Egypt do with a president who leads his country like a monarch. He said the same thing they have been doing for 20 years: wait for him to die.
-The layout of the streets and the navigation of them has definately left it's dizzying impression. There are no left-hand turns so in order to go to a location you must pass it several times and that is assuming that everyone else follows the general unspoken rules of the road...which they don't!! Horns are used to indicate turns, to tell another driver you are there, to say hello, to let someone know you are backing up, to tell people you are about to drive the wrong way down a one-way street, etc. It is deafening, but if that doesn't get you and the u-turns have left you with something to be desired, then the multiple brushes with death will surely keep you on your toes. With lines in the roads as mere "suggestions" of lanes and cops as corrupt as I've ever seen it is beyond me why they have no public transportation. The most comical part of all was going to the mall and paying a guy to "watch" you car as he double parked it in front of his shop, (for a small fee of course), making sure to remind you to leave the car in neutral so he could push it out of the way in case the owner of the car you parked in came back. He waves as he puts a large rock behind each of your back tires so it won't roll backwards into traffic!!
-Many of the things I observe are funny and definitely worth mentioning for a laugh, but now being in Uganda (one of the poorest countries in the world) I can say that the city of Cairo is worse off than here. Cairo is unjustifiably poor!! Not that there is a justifiable poverty, but one is able to string together logically the causes or contributor to the lack of wealth. But in the case of Cairo they are the home to two of the seven wonders of the world including the Sphinx and the pyramids of Giza. These tourist traps bring in untold amounts of money that the Egyptians never see. That saddens me more than anything and it makes me upset that though they have tried, they just can't seem to shake corrupt government, democratic or not.
Sunday, October 18, 2009
Happy last day of Ramadan!! Yes please Turkey:)
-I've learned so much during my travels; each country deepening my understanding of society, culture, mankind and in turn, myself though (sometimes much more directly). Normally there is one person who acts as a catalyst, a person who seems to have an uncanny ability to say/do/be something in passing that hits so close to home you shudder. When you are lucky you find two in one city like I did.
Upon my arrival in Istanbul, like so many times before, I decided that to relax would be just a waste of a day. In the conversation in my mind I came to a compromise as is typical in the ongoing reconciliation of the many facets of my personality: I would go wander around after checking into my hostel and once I arrived at one of the sights on my ambitious list I would have a tea. Pleased with my plan I set off walking. Hungry from fasting for Ramadan and tired from a day of travel, and ended up getting lost...yet again. (It doesn't really bother me anymore to get lost, in fact it's in the category with everyone around me speaking another language, it's inevitable.) I ducked in the first travel agency I saw to ask for directions to the Blue Mosque and met Yalcin. Yalcin and I sat, talked and had tea while he shared (as only locals can properly) the history, must see locations and nuances of the culture. It turned out he and his sister owned the travel agency so the tour he helped me to book was going to be awesome. So fun in fact that at dinner we decided he would come along as well. The next day I saw the Blue Mosque and the Aya Sophia and went with his sister for a much needed mani-pedi and an unbelievable Turkish Bath scrub down before leaving for Selcek. From there we took a day trip to Pamukkale and Ephesus and stayed in Antalya before leaving on the first boat cruise from Olimpos. Over the next 4 days on the boat we saw the Sunken City and docked in Kas and Kalkan to explore the towns. We jumped off the side of the boat in St.Nicholas Bay and Tarzan Bay.
-I'm always intrigued to find out the customs that make the countries I'm in unique. Turkey may be the least conservative of the Islamic countries, but it is still is quite traditional especially when it comes to male-felmale relationships. When a young girl and boy like each other and the family of the boy goes to visit the family of the girl, she can let him know that she likes him secretly. After the tea has been prepared, instead of putting sugar in his cup she puts salt. He will know immediately that she likes him after the first sip. If he likes her back he show her by drinking all of it.
-The Ottoman empire was extremely influential and parts of it's legacy still live on today. The tea cups for example are shaped like tulips because at one point behind the Ottoman gates was the only place in the world they could be found. When the queen of Holland came to visit Turkey she saw the flower for the first time and fell in love with it. Wanting to bring it back to her own palace she asked for a plant, but her request was denied. She wasn't going to let a "no" stop her from getting what she wanted, she was a queen after all. Before she left the grounds she secretly plucked a tulip and hid it under the curls of her up do!! She smuggled the flower back to her palace and now Holland is the world's number one exporter of tulips.
"Money is like dirt, there is always more"
Upon my arrival in Istanbul, like so many times before, I decided that to relax would be just a waste of a day. In the conversation in my mind I came to a compromise as is typical in the ongoing reconciliation of the many facets of my personality: I would go wander around after checking into my hostel and once I arrived at one of the sights on my ambitious list I would have a tea. Pleased with my plan I set off walking. Hungry from fasting for Ramadan and tired from a day of travel, and ended up getting lost...yet again. (It doesn't really bother me anymore to get lost, in fact it's in the category with everyone around me speaking another language, it's inevitable.) I ducked in the first travel agency I saw to ask for directions to the Blue Mosque and met Yalcin. Yalcin and I sat, talked and had tea while he shared (as only locals can properly) the history, must see locations and nuances of the culture. It turned out he and his sister owned the travel agency so the tour he helped me to book was going to be awesome. So fun in fact that at dinner we decided he would come along as well. The next day I saw the Blue Mosque and the Aya Sophia and went with his sister for a much needed mani-pedi and an unbelievable Turkish Bath scrub down before leaving for Selcek. From there we took a day trip to Pamukkale and Ephesus and stayed in Antalya before leaving on the first boat cruise from Olimpos. Over the next 4 days on the boat we saw the Sunken City and docked in Kas and Kalkan to explore the towns. We jumped off the side of the boat in St.Nicholas Bay and Tarzan Bay.
-I'm always intrigued to find out the customs that make the countries I'm in unique. Turkey may be the least conservative of the Islamic countries, but it is still is quite traditional especially when it comes to male-felmale relationships. When a young girl and boy like each other and the family of the boy goes to visit the family of the girl, she can let him know that she likes him secretly. After the tea has been prepared, instead of putting sugar in his cup she puts salt. He will know immediately that she likes him after the first sip. If he likes her back he show her by drinking all of it.
-The Ottoman empire was extremely influential and parts of it's legacy still live on today. The tea cups for example are shaped like tulips because at one point behind the Ottoman gates was the only place in the world they could be found. When the queen of Holland came to visit Turkey she saw the flower for the first time and fell in love with it. Wanting to bring it back to her own palace she asked for a plant, but her request was denied. She wasn't going to let a "no" stop her from getting what she wanted, she was a queen after all. Before she left the grounds she secretly plucked a tulip and hid it under the curls of her up do!! She smuggled the flower back to her palace and now Holland is the world's number one exporter of tulips.
"Money is like dirt, there is always more"
Sunday, August 23, 2009
"My Third Nostril"
I haven't done a blog entry for quite a while now and for that I'm sorry. It's not that you've missed so much, I just know that this is my lifeline to the rest of the world and if you are "here with me" as I say then you should be aware of what's going on:) As I'm moving through my journey internet access is becoming less and less available and I can make no guarantees about the frequency of my entries when I'm in Africa, India or Nepal, but for now let me tell you about Greece.
I'm telling you, island hopping is the new black!! Although the first island is difficult to get to...no matter where you are, it's so easy just to go from island to island once you are here. Each one has a different vibe and gives off a different energy, you would never think they are all part of the same country. Santorini had a Caribbean feel to it; if you aren't on "island time" like everyone else, very quickly you begin to feel uptight. The result of this neither good nor bad, just always the same: you end up staying longer than you had planned because it's easier to stay than it is to leave:) The next island I ferried to was Mykonos... mecca of the gay community. I can compare this island to a cross between South Beach and Cancun. The island was packed to the brim with tourists...mainly Italians on holiday for the month of August. The "beach bungalow" (which sounds FAR more glamorous than it was) had no view and ironically was no where close to the beach. This I didn't really mind...it was the 45 euros per night I was paying to stay on a campsite (yes, a campsite!!) that really hurt. (In "real money" that is the equivalent of about $65!!) After lodging and one drink at 15 euros (about $22) I was over Mykonos. I've loop holes in many of the places where I've been and been able to get, at the very least, free wifi... When I got to the campsite and asked about free wifi the driver said "Nothing is free in Mykonos...welcome to Paradise". (To be fair the name of the area where we were staying was Paradise Beach, so it doesn't sound that bad when put in context.) My next island was Naxos where I camped as well. The people there were great and I had a blast! It was far less expensive and felt "real" not the showy feel that Mykonos had. I'm now on the island of Paros which is sort of a cross between Mykonos and Naxos. The prices here are higher than Naxos, but not ridiculous like Mykonos; the aesthetics are as beautiful as both if not better! Still, it has the artificial feel of Mykonos...the girls are in heels and full make up. I'm not about to cave to the cosmetic industry now...I've gone this long. Most of the time I just feel bad for the girls because I know how uncomfortable those shoes are!!
Some of the nicest people I've met have been from the places where I've been told the people are "mean" or to "watch out for the locals". Greece and Morocco are both great examples of this. I don't think the people in either occurred any differently to me than they would have normally or that my expectations of them were lower because of the things I had heard. I think people are generally doing what they are doing in good faith...whether it's trying to look out for a solo female traveler by warning her or a culture consciously being on their best behavior because they are aware that they have a poor reputation and are working to turn it around. I was told that the Greek people were mean and aggressive before I came here, but what I have found is just the opposite. I think this is another one of those cultural misunderstandings. The Greeks, like Italians, are very expressive and to some extent curt, but any foreign language spoken loudly and coupled with hand gestures is going to sound mean and aggressive to a listener who can't understand what is being said. I consider myself soft spoken for the most part and gentle with my voice, but in the hierarchy of descriptors apparently "ability to adapt" ranks higher. I've found it takes me about 2 days in a country before I have taken on the cultural nuances and adopted the country specific characteristics. This is by no means intentional, but has proven to be by far my greatest asset on this trip.
I was asked to write an article telling about my journey for "Adventure Woman" newsletter!!! (The link is on my Facebook page.) Some of the questions and topics addressed in my article are why I took this trip, the inner and outer journey/transformation, would I do it again? Recommend it to others? Has it changed me? What is the best advice I would give someone embarking on (or dreaming of) a similar journey/expedition. The article follows below. Enjoy!!
"My Third Nostril"
It is the end of August and I am rounding the corner on my third month of traveling! It is actually a drop in the bucket when I look at the year and a half left in front of me. I'm currently in Greece, the 13th country I've visited after moving counterclockwise through Europe. I began June 1st in London, took the Eurostar to Paris and the train through Belgium stopping in Brussels, Bruges and Oostende before heading up to Amsterdam. I took a few days in Bordeaux before switching gears to Spain's Madrid, Sevilla and Malaga. I took the ferry to Morocco and enjoyed the cities of Tangier, Marrakech and Casablanca before flying to Barcelona. I returned to the coastline of Nice, Cannes, Antibes and Montecarlo, then hopped on another ferry to Corsica. I took the overnight train to Vienna and Salzberg before going to Munich. I stayed in Prague for a few days to relax and enjoy what I had always remembered as my favorite city in Europe. I explored eastern Europe's Budapest, Zagreb and Split before a stop over in Italy and what has turned into an island hopping extravaganza including Santorini, Mykonos, Naxos and Paros. My plans are to fly out of Athens on the 1st of September to begin the next leg of my journey to Turkey, Egypt and Africa, Dubai, India and Nepal, followed by China, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam and Thailand, before ending in Japan. Many have asked me why I'm doing this...and I've never been one to need reasons, but the more times I answer the question the closer I come to the answer. I remember hearing a quote that said "Those willing life takes hand in hand; those unwilling life takes kicking and screaming". This trip chose me; I'm clear about that. The variables that made it easier were that I'm a teacher and there are no jobs, I'm not in debt, I'm not married and I have no children...If those aren't reason enough, I'm young and probably won't get a chance to do something like this again. It's not that I didn't have reasons to stay; I'm just bigger than my reasons:) It's not that I don't get scared; I feel it. I just don't let fear stop me.
The inner transformation is best described as the equivalent to getting a third nostril. That may sound silly, but you didn't realize how much you needed both of them until one plugged up when you got sick right? Well traveling is like growing a third...you can't imagine that there is this much air out there!! I've learned there is a fine line between naïvety and intentional ignorance and that both are self defeating. I'm aware of my own transformations in some instances like my relationship with women. There is a kinship that I either denied or never chose to be a part of, but I've come to see that the bond amongst women has a language all it's own.
The outer transformation...well it's a humbling experience realizing your personal level of vanity. Going without hair color, cuts, facials, waxing...you get the idea. Men lose weight in Europe, women gain weight. Fair or not, that's how it is. There is no "low/non fat" or "sugarfree" anything and I hope you like ham because its in everything:)
"Would I do it again?" Well it's not over yet, but so far- in a heartbeat!! At times it felt closer to an endurance test than a vacation, but the yoda-like ticket lady in Oostende said it best: "You'll eventually get there...don't worry". I would recommend this experience to everyone! It's so difficult to realistically consider it once you have begun your career. Two weeks vacation really isn't enough time to go anywhere, but the world that opens up is beyond words.
The trip I'm taking at the age of 31 years old is very different that the trip I took to Europe just 9 years ago for my semester abroad.
I think the biggest challenge, in the beginning especially, was getting used to the sound of the voice in my head. Now if growing up an only child doesn't prepare you for traveling alone, I really think there can be no training.
I believe this trip has already significantly altered my thoughts, but as for my outward personality, well I'll have to ask my friends when I return home...in 2011.
I'm telling you, island hopping is the new black!! Although the first island is difficult to get to...no matter where you are, it's so easy just to go from island to island once you are here. Each one has a different vibe and gives off a different energy, you would never think they are all part of the same country. Santorini had a Caribbean feel to it; if you aren't on "island time" like everyone else, very quickly you begin to feel uptight. The result of this neither good nor bad, just always the same: you end up staying longer than you had planned because it's easier to stay than it is to leave:) The next island I ferried to was Mykonos... mecca of the gay community. I can compare this island to a cross between South Beach and Cancun. The island was packed to the brim with tourists...mainly Italians on holiday for the month of August. The "beach bungalow" (which sounds FAR more glamorous than it was) had no view and ironically was no where close to the beach. This I didn't really mind...it was the 45 euros per night I was paying to stay on a campsite (yes, a campsite!!) that really hurt. (In "real money" that is the equivalent of about $65!!) After lodging and one drink at 15 euros (about $22) I was over Mykonos. I've loop holes in many of the places where I've been and been able to get, at the very least, free wifi... When I got to the campsite and asked about free wifi the driver said "Nothing is free in Mykonos...welcome to Paradise". (To be fair the name of the area where we were staying was Paradise Beach, so it doesn't sound that bad when put in context.) My next island was Naxos where I camped as well. The people there were great and I had a blast! It was far less expensive and felt "real" not the showy feel that Mykonos had. I'm now on the island of Paros which is sort of a cross between Mykonos and Naxos. The prices here are higher than Naxos, but not ridiculous like Mykonos; the aesthetics are as beautiful as both if not better! Still, it has the artificial feel of Mykonos...the girls are in heels and full make up. I'm not about to cave to the cosmetic industry now...I've gone this long. Most of the time I just feel bad for the girls because I know how uncomfortable those shoes are!!
Some of the nicest people I've met have been from the places where I've been told the people are "mean" or to "watch out for the locals". Greece and Morocco are both great examples of this. I don't think the people in either occurred any differently to me than they would have normally or that my expectations of them were lower because of the things I had heard. I think people are generally doing what they are doing in good faith...whether it's trying to look out for a solo female traveler by warning her or a culture consciously being on their best behavior because they are aware that they have a poor reputation and are working to turn it around. I was told that the Greek people were mean and aggressive before I came here, but what I have found is just the opposite. I think this is another one of those cultural misunderstandings. The Greeks, like Italians, are very expressive and to some extent curt, but any foreign language spoken loudly and coupled with hand gestures is going to sound mean and aggressive to a listener who can't understand what is being said. I consider myself soft spoken for the most part and gentle with my voice, but in the hierarchy of descriptors apparently "ability to adapt" ranks higher. I've found it takes me about 2 days in a country before I have taken on the cultural nuances and adopted the country specific characteristics. This is by no means intentional, but has proven to be by far my greatest asset on this trip.
I was asked to write an article telling about my journey for "Adventure Woman" newsletter!!! (The link is on my Facebook page.) Some of the questions and topics addressed in my article are why I took this trip, the inner and outer journey/transformation, would I do it again? Recommend it to others? Has it changed me? What is the best advice I would give someone embarking on (or dreaming of) a similar journey/expedition. The article follows below. Enjoy!!
"My Third Nostril"
It is the end of August and I am rounding the corner on my third month of traveling! It is actually a drop in the bucket when I look at the year and a half left in front of me. I'm currently in Greece, the 13th country I've visited after moving counterclockwise through Europe. I began June 1st in London, took the Eurostar to Paris and the train through Belgium stopping in Brussels, Bruges and Oostende before heading up to Amsterdam. I took a few days in Bordeaux before switching gears to Spain's Madrid, Sevilla and Malaga. I took the ferry to Morocco and enjoyed the cities of Tangier, Marrakech and Casablanca before flying to Barcelona. I returned to the coastline of Nice, Cannes, Antibes and Montecarlo, then hopped on another ferry to Corsica. I took the overnight train to Vienna and Salzberg before going to Munich. I stayed in Prague for a few days to relax and enjoy what I had always remembered as my favorite city in Europe. I explored eastern Europe's Budapest, Zagreb and Split before a stop over in Italy and what has turned into an island hopping extravaganza including Santorini, Mykonos, Naxos and Paros. My plans are to fly out of Athens on the 1st of September to begin the next leg of my journey to Turkey, Egypt and Africa, Dubai, India and Nepal, followed by China, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam and Thailand, before ending in Japan. Many have asked me why I'm doing this...and I've never been one to need reasons, but the more times I answer the question the closer I come to the answer. I remember hearing a quote that said "Those willing life takes hand in hand; those unwilling life takes kicking and screaming". This trip chose me; I'm clear about that. The variables that made it easier were that I'm a teacher and there are no jobs, I'm not in debt, I'm not married and I have no children...If those aren't reason enough, I'm young and probably won't get a chance to do something like this again. It's not that I didn't have reasons to stay; I'm just bigger than my reasons:) It's not that I don't get scared; I feel it. I just don't let fear stop me.
The inner transformation is best described as the equivalent to getting a third nostril. That may sound silly, but you didn't realize how much you needed both of them until one plugged up when you got sick right? Well traveling is like growing a third...you can't imagine that there is this much air out there!! I've learned there is a fine line between naïvety and intentional ignorance and that both are self defeating. I'm aware of my own transformations in some instances like my relationship with women. There is a kinship that I either denied or never chose to be a part of, but I've come to see that the bond amongst women has a language all it's own.
The outer transformation...well it's a humbling experience realizing your personal level of vanity. Going without hair color, cuts, facials, waxing...you get the idea. Men lose weight in Europe, women gain weight. Fair or not, that's how it is. There is no "low/non fat" or "sugarfree" anything and I hope you like ham because its in everything:)
"Would I do it again?" Well it's not over yet, but so far- in a heartbeat!! At times it felt closer to an endurance test than a vacation, but the yoda-like ticket lady in Oostende said it best: "You'll eventually get there...don't worry". I would recommend this experience to everyone! It's so difficult to realistically consider it once you have begun your career. Two weeks vacation really isn't enough time to go anywhere, but the world that opens up is beyond words.
The trip I'm taking at the age of 31 years old is very different that the trip I took to Europe just 9 years ago for my semester abroad.
I think the biggest challenge, in the beginning especially, was getting used to the sound of the voice in my head. Now if growing up an only child doesn't prepare you for traveling alone, I really think there can be no training.
I believe this trip has already significantly altered my thoughts, but as for my outward personality, well I'll have to ask my friends when I return home...in 2011.
Tuesday, August 4, 2009
Austria, Prague and Hungary, oh my!!!
I've been open-minded enough to have unusual food and have ended up enjoying Moroccan sacrificial lamb and goulash, but this morning for breakfast I was so excited at an alternative to the typical European "bread-fast"- I was going to have an Austrian omelet!! I ordered it, but requested "no ham". (If you've ever been to Europe you will notice 3 main ingredients, much like the rice, beans and tortillas of Mexican food. Here the big 3 are bread, ham and egg...in EVERYTHING! There is the occasional exception of tuna-even on pizza. Here nothing is sacred.) Instead of ham, the young man put pork and bacon...and cheese...and then salted it. How is it possible that with the way they eat in Europe that they still live longer than we do in America?!?! Is stress really that lethal? It must be because they eat a lot of unhealthy stuff here. What do Muslims eat? Ever since the issues in France with the burkas in school, I've noticed a lot more traditional Muslims in other countries I've been to.
I think the lack of stress is a trickle down thing as well. The way they are with their children is really admirable. They have a laissez-fair approach to the role of parenting. There is a cause and effect to the choices that the children make and parents don't get involved in its relationship. Because of this the children are in more control of themselves and regulate themselves. Here is testimony to that fact: I've seen one temper tantrum during my trip and it was by a boy from England.
-How can a shower bring you back from the dead??? I'm not sure how, but it did!!
-It's amazing the transformation your body goes through when you're traveling- gain weight, lose weight, gain muscle, you can see the little purple veins in your feet from walking, your skin changes from the food you are eating, your hair changes from the water you are washing it with
-I'm realizing it isn't so much about the places you go...how many castles/cathedrals/collections of shiny thing can one person go see? I'm finding it's more about the company you keep in the places you DO go. You may take all kinds of pictures, but the relationships you build, the time you invest along the way, the laughs and the tears shared with people that at on point were mere strangers. The backpackers that I have met seem to understand this. They have learned to enjoy the moment for what it is and not live in a state of perpetual anticipation of the future. It seem as though many of us are trying to speed life up, slow it down or pause it and hold on to something that is forever changing. I'm learning to enjoy the moment, not force situations and realizing that I may not always know the best way...and for a teacher that is a huge hurdle to overcome. I don't know it all, but I'm a fast learner, an even better listener and hungry for knowledge.
-It's funny how when people are speaking a language you don't understand you are sure they are talking about very important things...they aren't. Trust me on this one. I was a bit concerned because as the announcements for the train come on the overhead speaker, the conductor speaks in German for a good 4 minutes. When he is finished he says, in English, "We will be arriving in blah, blah station in 2 minutes". You get a little worried because you don't know what you have missed. Well, I finally had someone translate what they were saying and it was about the color of the train seats, about the orientation of the 1st and second class cars and how this train differs from others because of these particular features. I liked it better when I had no idea what he was talking about:) At least I could make up something interesting.
-I've been learning about the controversy surrounding Nestle and how they refuse to switch to conflict free/non-child labor obtained chocolate because of the profit margin they would lose. I'm amazed we haven't heard about this in the U.S.
-I've noticed stages that I've gone through as I've been traveling...right now I'm burnt out. I really think the heat and humidity has A LOT to do with it though and I'm optimistic.
-Today I leave from Budapest to Croatia. I leave here highly indebted to this country for reminding me of humility...not for the reasons you may think either. While skyping friends in Prague I unplugged my computer to get better sound by the window. In the midst of the emotion I forgot my computer charger in Czech Republic and didn't realize it until I was here. I have always been the hardest on myself and this case was no exception. As I was walking downtown trying to blow off some steam, I heard a woman next to me talking to her friend, mimicking the same conversation I was hearing in my head. "I didn't even realize until I was here...I'm so upset with myself", she was saying. "I can't believe I left my passport under my pillow in the hotel." I stopped in my tracks. At that moment I realized just how much worse off I could be. I officially dropped it, forgave myself and used my words to find an alternative. As it turned out, there was an Apple Store (called "istyle" here) within walking distance from where I was staying. Again, life was gentle with me and I'm grateful.
-Tip of the week: When washing out your clothes in the sink, DON'T look at the color of the water that is running off of them!!
-I'm so pleased that I've been able to share desserts. We in America may have big everything, but we have nothing on Europe's desserts. When I've gone out to eat and ordered dessert I've never been able to get even halfway through it, but the restaurants here have no concept of "doggie bag" and even if they did, desserts don't keep. So I've taken up offering the rest to a neighbor. I explain that the dessert is wonderful, but that I can't possibly finish and if they would like it they are more than welcome to it. You know what...they take it!! That makes me so happy. I'm really a sharer at heart and to see others enjoy what I've enjoyed makes the experience that much richer:) How wonderful!!
I think the lack of stress is a trickle down thing as well. The way they are with their children is really admirable. They have a laissez-fair approach to the role of parenting. There is a cause and effect to the choices that the children make and parents don't get involved in its relationship. Because of this the children are in more control of themselves and regulate themselves. Here is testimony to that fact: I've seen one temper tantrum during my trip and it was by a boy from England.
-How can a shower bring you back from the dead??? I'm not sure how, but it did!!
-It's amazing the transformation your body goes through when you're traveling- gain weight, lose weight, gain muscle, you can see the little purple veins in your feet from walking, your skin changes from the food you are eating, your hair changes from the water you are washing it with
-I'm realizing it isn't so much about the places you go...how many castles/cathedrals/collections of shiny thing can one person go see? I'm finding it's more about the company you keep in the places you DO go. You may take all kinds of pictures, but the relationships you build, the time you invest along the way, the laughs and the tears shared with people that at on point were mere strangers. The backpackers that I have met seem to understand this. They have learned to enjoy the moment for what it is and not live in a state of perpetual anticipation of the future. It seem as though many of us are trying to speed life up, slow it down or pause it and hold on to something that is forever changing. I'm learning to enjoy the moment, not force situations and realizing that I may not always know the best way...and for a teacher that is a huge hurdle to overcome. I don't know it all, but I'm a fast learner, an even better listener and hungry for knowledge.
-It's funny how when people are speaking a language you don't understand you are sure they are talking about very important things...they aren't. Trust me on this one. I was a bit concerned because as the announcements for the train come on the overhead speaker, the conductor speaks in German for a good 4 minutes. When he is finished he says, in English, "We will be arriving in blah, blah station in 2 minutes". You get a little worried because you don't know what you have missed. Well, I finally had someone translate what they were saying and it was about the color of the train seats, about the orientation of the 1st and second class cars and how this train differs from others because of these particular features. I liked it better when I had no idea what he was talking about:) At least I could make up something interesting.
-I've been learning about the controversy surrounding Nestle and how they refuse to switch to conflict free/non-child labor obtained chocolate because of the profit margin they would lose. I'm amazed we haven't heard about this in the U.S.
-I've noticed stages that I've gone through as I've been traveling...right now I'm burnt out. I really think the heat and humidity has A LOT to do with it though and I'm optimistic.
-Today I leave from Budapest to Croatia. I leave here highly indebted to this country for reminding me of humility...not for the reasons you may think either. While skyping friends in Prague I unplugged my computer to get better sound by the window. In the midst of the emotion I forgot my computer charger in Czech Republic and didn't realize it until I was here. I have always been the hardest on myself and this case was no exception. As I was walking downtown trying to blow off some steam, I heard a woman next to me talking to her friend, mimicking the same conversation I was hearing in my head. "I didn't even realize until I was here...I'm so upset with myself", she was saying. "I can't believe I left my passport under my pillow in the hotel." I stopped in my tracks. At that moment I realized just how much worse off I could be. I officially dropped it, forgave myself and used my words to find an alternative. As it turned out, there was an Apple Store (called "istyle" here) within walking distance from where I was staying. Again, life was gentle with me and I'm grateful.
-Tip of the week: When washing out your clothes in the sink, DON'T look at the color of the water that is running off of them!!
-I'm so pleased that I've been able to share desserts. We in America may have big everything, but we have nothing on Europe's desserts. When I've gone out to eat and ordered dessert I've never been able to get even halfway through it, but the restaurants here have no concept of "doggie bag" and even if they did, desserts don't keep. So I've taken up offering the rest to a neighbor. I explain that the dessert is wonderful, but that I can't possibly finish and if they would like it they are more than welcome to it. You know what...they take it!! That makes me so happy. I'm really a sharer at heart and to see others enjoy what I've enjoyed makes the experience that much richer:) How wonderful!!
Thursday, July 23, 2009
Vienna, Salburg and off to Munich tomorrow
-Monte Carlo/Monaco can keep their Ferrarris, I want a Vespa from Santa
-Another unexpected delay in the transportation plans, but no a problem. It just meant I got 2 more days in Nice...I cant complain. I've learned not to get attached to travel plans.
-Originally I had planned to go to Geneva, Switzerland, but I need to visit another expensive European "economic center" like a hole in the head. I've opted instead to forgo Switzerland and go straight to Vienna via overnight couchette. I have great memories of Vienna from when I lived in Europe 9 years ago on a study abroad, but I'm noticing that the European Union does something to its member countries...most notibly, make them unbearingly expensive. Since the majority of my trip so far has been to the more developed Western European countries AND the dollar is so weak right now, I'm really feeling the squeeze in my wallet. I had a great conversation in the train with a member of the foreign legion who gave me several great points and suggestions for my journey. He pointed out that as I move in the route that I have planned the cost of living is going to go down considerably. I'm moving eastbound around the world so Europe will be the most expensive place I will be. I decided at that point to let it go. If this is the steepest it will get then I will enjoy where I am when I am there and be happy to cut corners where I can. I'm not going to undermine the quality of my travels for the sake of a few euros. This may not sound like a big deal to you, but it is a huge burden off of my shoulders and I'm glad I'm back in the moment.
- I've noticed a huge difference in the authenticity of touch here as well. In general, Europeans are much more unaware of their personal space (see the loss of "my last creature comfort" in previous entry). In the metro nothing is sacred, you are inundated with hands and smells, but it's never intrusive. As much as you are positive you are going to be trampled at any minute, they skim you without contact (mainly in Morocco) or gently bump you without so much as an "excuse me" (mainly Spain and France). For as much physical contact as experienced from strangers, you can see why transactions in the stores caught me off guard: hands never touch during purchases. When you are buying something, your money goes in the dish to pay for it, it is picked up by the teller, your change put back in the dish and you pick it up. I remember days at home when the only physical contact I got with another person was when I would go to buy something and our hands would touch...how sad is that. Here I kiss strangers on the cheeks when I say goodbye. I hold hands with people I've known a day...and it seems so natural.
-The Austrians are very nice and look to me like Americanized Germans. They are taller, have darker hair and Everyone has piercing and tattoos...I mean like they look like they fought a tackle-box and lost.
-I like the German influence on the schedules. Everything runs on time!! No problems with transportation and there seems to be a continuity to the system. I'm going to get used to it though. From what I hear Italian train are just about the worst and without different classes in the cars, there goes the ace up my sleeve.
-I've never seen the kind of humidity that I did today. It was even worse than Madrid's weather, but it held out until I was at dinner before it started pouring buckets of water from the sky. Weird thunder and lightening storm followed and I got to witness the "threads" of diagonal rain that Salzburg is so famous for.
-It doesn't smell like honey, jasmine, wood, playdoh and salt water the way that Corsica did, but the smell of pennies in the air indicating rain to break the humidity will be just fine with me:)
-Another unexpected delay in the transportation plans, but no a problem. It just meant I got 2 more days in Nice...I cant complain. I've learned not to get attached to travel plans.
-Originally I had planned to go to Geneva, Switzerland, but I need to visit another expensive European "economic center" like a hole in the head. I've opted instead to forgo Switzerland and go straight to Vienna via overnight couchette. I have great memories of Vienna from when I lived in Europe 9 years ago on a study abroad, but I'm noticing that the European Union does something to its member countries...most notibly, make them unbearingly expensive. Since the majority of my trip so far has been to the more developed Western European countries AND the dollar is so weak right now, I'm really feeling the squeeze in my wallet. I had a great conversation in the train with a member of the foreign legion who gave me several great points and suggestions for my journey. He pointed out that as I move in the route that I have planned the cost of living is going to go down considerably. I'm moving eastbound around the world so Europe will be the most expensive place I will be. I decided at that point to let it go. If this is the steepest it will get then I will enjoy where I am when I am there and be happy to cut corners where I can. I'm not going to undermine the quality of my travels for the sake of a few euros. This may not sound like a big deal to you, but it is a huge burden off of my shoulders and I'm glad I'm back in the moment.
- I've noticed a huge difference in the authenticity of touch here as well. In general, Europeans are much more unaware of their personal space (see the loss of "my last creature comfort" in previous entry). In the metro nothing is sacred, you are inundated with hands and smells, but it's never intrusive. As much as you are positive you are going to be trampled at any minute, they skim you without contact (mainly in Morocco) or gently bump you without so much as an "excuse me" (mainly Spain and France). For as much physical contact as experienced from strangers, you can see why transactions in the stores caught me off guard: hands never touch during purchases. When you are buying something, your money goes in the dish to pay for it, it is picked up by the teller, your change put back in the dish and you pick it up. I remember days at home when the only physical contact I got with another person was when I would go to buy something and our hands would touch...how sad is that. Here I kiss strangers on the cheeks when I say goodbye. I hold hands with people I've known a day...and it seems so natural.
-The Austrians are very nice and look to me like Americanized Germans. They are taller, have darker hair and Everyone has piercing and tattoos...I mean like they look like they fought a tackle-box and lost.
-I like the German influence on the schedules. Everything runs on time!! No problems with transportation and there seems to be a continuity to the system. I'm going to get used to it though. From what I hear Italian train are just about the worst and without different classes in the cars, there goes the ace up my sleeve.
-I've never seen the kind of humidity that I did today. It was even worse than Madrid's weather, but it held out until I was at dinner before it started pouring buckets of water from the sky. Weird thunder and lightening storm followed and I got to witness the "threads" of diagonal rain that Salzburg is so famous for.
-It doesn't smell like honey, jasmine, wood, playdoh and salt water the way that Corsica did, but the smell of pennies in the air indicating rain to break the humidity will be just fine with me:)
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
Leaving the "Crazy Woman" for $6 tea
Barcelona got me. In all her brilliance, in her fountains that endlessly spew water synced to Disney music, in her museums that have dizzying layouts...she got me. I've extended my stay here and will be staying at my friend Elsa's house. This is the same Elsa that I met in Bordeaux who moved out to Barcelona about 3 weeks ago. Things are going well and I'm feeling better though not 100% in the least. But I do feel well enough to go explore Barcelona the way it should be explored.
When speaking with a Romanian waitress the other day she and I were discussing the Spanish dichotomy: those who love Madrid tend to dislike Barcelona and vice versa. Admitting that I had found myself to belong to the party of the lovers of Barcelona she disclosed the same with a laugh. I shared with her how I had extended my stay and still didn't feel ready to leave. At this she said not to worry because Barcelona is "like a crazy woman". With a puzzled look on my face I'm sure, I ran over the words in my mind again to be sure I had the translation correct. At this she switched to English. "Barcelona is like a crazy woman" she said, "because although you may leave her...you always come back". I love that!! And I know it to be true with everything in me. The advantage to staying in hostels are being told the sites to avoid and short cuts through the system, but it also comes with the story of the individual sharing the pointers. I've met half a dozen people who either came to Barcelona to visit and never left or swore to some back after a visit and are on the return journey or were backpacking and have been in Barcelona since a date they can no longer recall. In the bar where the Romanian girl works there is a saying on the wall that reads "So close to the port you forget the date". I've fallen head over heels with Barcelona and I vow to come back to retrieve my heart.
Today is the day it happened...I'll never forget it. I prepared for a full day of travel (at times it looked as if it would be even more...) on the train from Barcelona to Nice on France's Independence day. The French train system is unreliable to begin with, but you put a holiday in there and all bets are off. I could only buy the train ticket to get from Barcelona to Montpellier, but would have to buy my ticket to get from Montpellier to Nice when I arrived in that station. While standing in line to purchase the ticket the attendant told me that the train was "full"...the trains here are always "full", but interestingly enough have MANY empty seats. The complicated part is to find the conductor in the 3 minutes the train is in the station and tell him (in broken French) the situation and that you MUST be on this train and have him agree to print you a reserved ticket before you board the train. If, God forbid, the fates should never meet and you take off in the train and are caught without a ticket, or a promise of one, you can be fined and kicked off the train. Nothing like a little crisis, sleep deprivation and a heavy pack on your back to heighten the language skills. I can now dance the European language samba! Today I've skipped between French, Spanish and English so much that I'm convinced that I could get my point across no matter the country.
It seems difficult to put into words, but today I feel more fortunate than I have in a long time. I'm not quite sure why, but suffice to say that today I became a true international traveller. I began my day early, hunted a hostel directly in front of the train station to give myself as much time as possible to sleep the night before and by chance found myself in a train car with the most attractive man I've seen since I've been here. It's strange how life works with it's twisted humor utilizing hormones to aide in playing out it's dramas and we, as pawns, slaves to our emotions, pick up the play cues and dance the dance. We've all done it, but in this case it was done with eyes, in conversation and at the discovery of separate destinations, futile attempts were made to alter what had already been written: we had now and that was to be enjoyed. What greater a lesson, what sweeter a way in which to be reminded of it.
I just finished two books while sipping my cup of $6 tea...I don't know how much more of this I can afford. Anyway, the first book is "Paris to the Moon" and the second is "The Lost Stradivarius" by Faulkner. Both were good, but the quotes I share with you are from the former.
"Most Americans draw their identities from the things they buy, while the French draw theirs from the things they do. What we think of as French rudeness and what they think of as American arrogance arise from this difference...For us, an elevator operator is only a tourist's way of getting to the top of the Eiffel Tower. For the French, a tourist is only an elevator operator's way opportunity to practice his metier in a suitably impressive setting."
"Loss, like distance, gives permission for romance."
"The hardest thing to convey is how lovely it all is and how that loveliness seems all you need. The ghosts that haunted you in New York or Pittsburgh will haunt you anywhere you go because they are your ghosts and the house they haunt is you. But they become disconcerted, shaken, confused for half a minute and in that moment in a December at four o'clock when you are walking from the bus stop to the Rue Saint Dominique and the lights are twinkling across the river [...] you feel as if you have escaped your ghosts if only because, being you, they are transfixed too looking at the lights in the trees on the other bank which they haven't seen before either."
"Suis-moi je te fuis, fuis-moi je te suis." (Come to me I'll run away, runaway and I'll come to you)
When speaking with a Romanian waitress the other day she and I were discussing the Spanish dichotomy: those who love Madrid tend to dislike Barcelona and vice versa. Admitting that I had found myself to belong to the party of the lovers of Barcelona she disclosed the same with a laugh. I shared with her how I had extended my stay and still didn't feel ready to leave. At this she said not to worry because Barcelona is "like a crazy woman". With a puzzled look on my face I'm sure, I ran over the words in my mind again to be sure I had the translation correct. At this she switched to English. "Barcelona is like a crazy woman" she said, "because although you may leave her...you always come back". I love that!! And I know it to be true with everything in me. The advantage to staying in hostels are being told the sites to avoid and short cuts through the system, but it also comes with the story of the individual sharing the pointers. I've met half a dozen people who either came to Barcelona to visit and never left or swore to some back after a visit and are on the return journey or were backpacking and have been in Barcelona since a date they can no longer recall. In the bar where the Romanian girl works there is a saying on the wall that reads "So close to the port you forget the date". I've fallen head over heels with Barcelona and I vow to come back to retrieve my heart.
Today is the day it happened...I'll never forget it. I prepared for a full day of travel (at times it looked as if it would be even more...) on the train from Barcelona to Nice on France's Independence day. The French train system is unreliable to begin with, but you put a holiday in there and all bets are off. I could only buy the train ticket to get from Barcelona to Montpellier, but would have to buy my ticket to get from Montpellier to Nice when I arrived in that station. While standing in line to purchase the ticket the attendant told me that the train was "full"...the trains here are always "full", but interestingly enough have MANY empty seats. The complicated part is to find the conductor in the 3 minutes the train is in the station and tell him (in broken French) the situation and that you MUST be on this train and have him agree to print you a reserved ticket before you board the train. If, God forbid, the fates should never meet and you take off in the train and are caught without a ticket, or a promise of one, you can be fined and kicked off the train. Nothing like a little crisis, sleep deprivation and a heavy pack on your back to heighten the language skills. I can now dance the European language samba! Today I've skipped between French, Spanish and English so much that I'm convinced that I could get my point across no matter the country.
It seems difficult to put into words, but today I feel more fortunate than I have in a long time. I'm not quite sure why, but suffice to say that today I became a true international traveller. I began my day early, hunted a hostel directly in front of the train station to give myself as much time as possible to sleep the night before and by chance found myself in a train car with the most attractive man I've seen since I've been here. It's strange how life works with it's twisted humor utilizing hormones to aide in playing out it's dramas and we, as pawns, slaves to our emotions, pick up the play cues and dance the dance. We've all done it, but in this case it was done with eyes, in conversation and at the discovery of separate destinations, futile attempts were made to alter what had already been written: we had now and that was to be enjoyed. What greater a lesson, what sweeter a way in which to be reminded of it.
I just finished two books while sipping my cup of $6 tea...I don't know how much more of this I can afford. Anyway, the first book is "Paris to the Moon" and the second is "The Lost Stradivarius" by Faulkner. Both were good, but the quotes I share with you are from the former.
"Most Americans draw their identities from the things they buy, while the French draw theirs from the things they do. What we think of as French rudeness and what they think of as American arrogance arise from this difference...For us, an elevator operator is only a tourist's way of getting to the top of the Eiffel Tower. For the French, a tourist is only an elevator operator's way opportunity to practice his metier in a suitably impressive setting."
"Loss, like distance, gives permission for romance."
"The hardest thing to convey is how lovely it all is and how that loveliness seems all you need. The ghosts that haunted you in New York or Pittsburgh will haunt you anywhere you go because they are your ghosts and the house they haunt is you. But they become disconcerted, shaken, confused for half a minute and in that moment in a December at four o'clock when you are walking from the bus stop to the Rue Saint Dominique and the lights are twinkling across the river [...] you feel as if you have escaped your ghosts if only because, being you, they are transfixed too looking at the lights in the trees on the other bank which they haven't seen before either."
"Suis-moi je te fuis, fuis-moi je te suis." (Come to me I'll run away, runaway and I'll come to you)
Monday, July 6, 2009
From Spain and skin to Morocco and sobriety...
From Malaga to Algaciris on an unforgettable train ride, then from Algeciris on a ferry to Tangier, Morocco. I'm traveling with 2 girls I met in Spain on holiday from Great Britain and we get along well. Got to Morocco last night late and spent the day walking around the city experiencing the culture. Women walk around covered from head to toe in sweltering, humid heat that has storekeepers seated in the shade. I was fortunate enough to have spoken to another girl at the last hostel who had just come from Morocco and I hadn't realized how close I was to cutting it out of my trip...worse, for really no reason at all other than I was buying into the preconceived ideas about what I though Morocco would be like. I had something along the lines of T.J. with a gypsy vibe and people looking to rip me off at any opportunity. She told me that, and I quote, "Casablanca [Morocco] changed my life." She went on about how kind the people were and how she had thought, before she had gone there, that everyone in Morocco was a thief and that her friends had cautioned her to be careful. I'm so glad I talked with her before I decided to kill of my trip here. Culturally speaking, I prepared accordingly (buying a small ring to wear as a wedding band and brought a balaclava with me to wear), but most important I believe is I chose to be aware, not make stupid choices that put me in compromising situations and above all to give
After discussions with people in the countries I've been to I'm beginning to see a pattern emerge in American behavior and the way in which we are perceived by the rest of the world. With sincerity and honest curiosity they've asked me why it is than whenever you talk to an American it's always "the worst time they've ever had" or "the best place they've ever been to"? False intensity and lack of authenticity is what we are known for. As I move from country to country I've noticed that what I once called my "personal space" (or rather the relinquishing of it as my last creature comfort), is not really caused by a lack of personal space at all. It's actually a lot of people living in a very small space. We have a cultural norm that is unspoken, but agreed upon in America of what I've coined as "timely chaos". We have a schedule that we adhere to and are very attached to its implementation despite what others may have on their agendas. We never intentionally move in a slow fashion to prevent others from accomplishing what they need to do...right? But when someone isn't moving at a rapid pace and it is directly affecting you, you are SURE that they are deliberately standing between you and where you need to be/what you need to get done/success. This is stressful and makes us tightly wound...and this, my friends, is why everyone else in the world smokes, drinks and parties until 6 a.m. and we as Americans still die first. Try being in a hurry in the countries I've been to...actually don't. It doesn't work. You get frustrated...until you're not anymore and you come back to reality and see that NOTHING was changed by your stress/anger/frustration. Eventually, you learn that you're eventually going to get where you need to be whenever that may be, but for now you are where you are, so have a beer/mojito/cappuccino and enjoy the moment because it is the best part of right now:)
I'm currently in Casablanca, considered to be the "economic center of Morocco"...funny. I only think they call it that because it's a little less chaotic than Marrakech and Tanger.
"Spinning is its own reward; there wouldn't be carousels if weren't so."
After discussions with people in the countries I've been to I'm beginning to see a pattern emerge in American behavior and the way in which we are perceived by the rest of the world. With sincerity and honest curiosity they've asked me why it is than whenever you talk to an American it's always "the worst time they've ever had" or "the best place they've ever been to"? False intensity and lack of authenticity is what we are known for. As I move from country to country I've noticed that what I once called my "personal space" (or rather the relinquishing of it as my last creature comfort), is not really caused by a lack of personal space at all. It's actually a lot of people living in a very small space. We have a cultural norm that is unspoken, but agreed upon in America of what I've coined as "timely chaos". We have a schedule that we adhere to and are very attached to its implementation despite what others may have on their agendas. We never intentionally move in a slow fashion to prevent others from accomplishing what they need to do...right? But when someone isn't moving at a rapid pace and it is directly affecting you, you are SURE that they are deliberately standing between you and where you need to be/what you need to get done/success. This is stressful and makes us tightly wound...and this, my friends, is why everyone else in the world smokes, drinks and parties until 6 a.m. and we as Americans still die first. Try being in a hurry in the countries I've been to...actually don't. It doesn't work. You get frustrated...until you're not anymore and you come back to reality and see that NOTHING was changed by your stress/anger/frustration. Eventually, you learn that you're eventually going to get where you need to be whenever that may be, but for now you are where you are, so have a beer/mojito/cappuccino and enjoy the moment because it is the best part of right now:)
I'm currently in Casablanca, considered to be the "economic center of Morocco"...funny. I only think they call it that because it's a little less chaotic than Marrakech and Tanger.
"Spinning is its own reward; there wouldn't be carousels if weren't so."
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